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Home The 1% Club Podcasts Editorial News Picture Gallery Two Views Sommelier Chef's Table Front-of-House Features Book Reviews Travel The Guides Michelin Guide Relais & Chateaux National Guides Europe 25 Contact |
Evolution not Revolution (July 2004)
by Simon Carter, Co-Editor
Michel Roux began his career as a chef at the British
Embassy in Paris before taking the position of private
chef to Mlle Cecile de Rothschild. It was in this role that
Michel developed his palate as well as his cooking
talents and started to look ahead to England and a joint
venture with his brother.
Le Gavroche opened its doors for business in 1967, the
young Michel and Albert Roux were about to revolutionise
the UK perception of fine dining with the first true
gastronomic restaurant. They found themselves packed
night after night, Michel and Albert would alternate weekly
between front of house and kitchen. Albert became more
known for meats and sauces while Michel’s reputation
grew in patisserie.
The brothers gradually expanded in London before, in
1972, purchasing The Waterside Inn, where they handed
the head chef reins to the up and coming Pierre
Koffman. When it came time, several years later, for
Pierre to set up on his own, The Waterside had become
an established gastronomic restaurant. Michel decided
to take on the fresh challenge and moved to Bray
permanently, while his brother remained at Le Gavroche.
The reputations of these two restaurants continued to
grow throughout the 1980s, both receiving the coveted
Three Michelin Stars. Only their protégé Pierre Koffman
at La Tante Claire, Nico Ladenis and Raymond Blanc
were to rival their supremacy.
It was during this time that Silvano Giraldin – “The
Godfather of Service” – was nurturing a group of front of
house talents that, to this day, remain world leaders in
their field. Michel Lange – now restaurant manager at
Louis XV in Monte Carlo, Denis Courtiade – now the
same at Plaza Athenee, Benoit Radenne – now the same
at The Waterside Inn and, in my opinion, the greatest of
them all, Diego Masciaga – recently promoted to Director
at The Waterside. These men worked together and
developed their craft under Silvano at Le Gavroche.
This is a significant point because the front of house
philosophy is fundamental to the dining experience, in
fact you do not eat at The Waterside, you have a
relationship with The Waterside.
Today, (as seemingly for ever) Diego orchestrates his
well drilled and professional team and always smiling,
he entertains his guests with natural warmth and charm
(right from stepping inside to the point of opening the
door for you to leave.) There is a clear sense of passion
about all that is The Waterside – passion for the food,
passion for service, passion to please.
Over the last 32 years the menu has developed and
progressed significantly. This fact might be contrary to
the typical perception; there have been no knee jerk
reactions to changing fashions, no sea changes;
development has instead been steady, purposeful and
well thought out – always holding true to guiding Roux
principles. The dishes of today bear little resemblance to
those presented in 1972; cleaner flavours, lighter sauces
and more focus on allowing the ingredients to speak for
themselves. The menus are still very much gastronomic,
in fact the pinnacle of gastronomy in the 21st century, just
as those of 1972 were the pinnacle of their time.
The lounge, the summer houses and the terrace
continue to be key parts of the ‘experience’ – the latter
two particularly in summer. The dining room is light and
airy with a view across the River Thames. Table 11, a
table for two, looking in on the restaurant from the
window is reserved for visiting local celebrities (such as
Terry Wogan and Michael Parkinson) and considered the
height of achievement for more mortal regulars.
The canapés arrive and, in spite of usually including a
foie gras concoction, remain light. The three course set
lunch is always consistent and for a Three Star
restaurant £40 is affordable. Upon being seated, still
mineral water is offered and if accepted is
complementary, sparkling is charged. The wine list is
not a mine field – there is considerable diversity thanks
to the expert knowledge and channelled enthusiasm of
Benoit Radenne; the customer has a good choice at
reasonable prices as well as the range of expected
heavyweights. The house policy is to buy en primeur and
as a result the Sommelier is invaluable in helping take
advantage of the restaurant’s educated gambles.
Plates arrive with silver domes, simultaneously lifted.
The Challandais duck is brought to the table and carved,
with the blade always moving toward the carver.
Cheeses are expertly explained and presented in
clockwise order of increasing strength. Ingenious desert
wine recommendations complement the variety of
puddings.
Michel Roux has now handed the baton to his son Alain,
even this has been gradual and smooth; the institution
continues to press forward without a blink. The Roux
scholarship still develops talent for the future and Michel
remains a Vice President of Relais & Chateaux – The
Waterside is one of the handful of Relais Gourmands in
the country. To him, life truly is, a menu.
by Simon Carter, Co-Editor
Michel Roux began his career as a chef at the British
Embassy in Paris before taking the position of private
chef to Mlle Cecile de Rothschild. It was in this role that
Michel developed his palate as well as his cooking
talents and started to look ahead to England and a joint
venture with his brother.
Le Gavroche opened its doors for business in 1967, the
young Michel and Albert Roux were about to revolutionise
the UK perception of fine dining with the first true
gastronomic restaurant. They found themselves packed
night after night, Michel and Albert would alternate weekly
between front of house and kitchen. Albert became more
known for meats and sauces while Michel’s reputation
grew in patisserie.
The brothers gradually expanded in London before, in
1972, purchasing The Waterside Inn, where they handed
the head chef reins to the up and coming Pierre
Koffman. When it came time, several years later, for
Pierre to set up on his own, The Waterside had become
an established gastronomic restaurant. Michel decided
to take on the fresh challenge and moved to Bray
permanently, while his brother remained at Le Gavroche.
The reputations of these two restaurants continued to
grow throughout the 1980s, both receiving the coveted
Three Michelin Stars. Only their protégé Pierre Koffman
at La Tante Claire, Nico Ladenis and Raymond Blanc
were to rival their supremacy.
It was during this time that Silvano Giraldin – “The
Godfather of Service” – was nurturing a group of front of
house talents that, to this day, remain world leaders in
their field. Michel Lange – now restaurant manager at
Louis XV in Monte Carlo, Denis Courtiade – now the
same at Plaza Athenee, Benoit Radenne – now the same
at The Waterside Inn and, in my opinion, the greatest of
them all, Diego Masciaga – recently promoted to Director
at The Waterside. These men worked together and
developed their craft under Silvano at Le Gavroche.
This is a significant point because the front of house
philosophy is fundamental to the dining experience, in
fact you do not eat at The Waterside, you have a
relationship with The Waterside.
Today, (as seemingly for ever) Diego orchestrates his
well drilled and professional team and always smiling,
he entertains his guests with natural warmth and charm
(right from stepping inside to the point of opening the
door for you to leave.) There is a clear sense of passion
about all that is The Waterside – passion for the food,
passion for service, passion to please.
Over the last 32 years the menu has developed and
progressed significantly. This fact might be contrary to
the typical perception; there have been no knee jerk
reactions to changing fashions, no sea changes;
development has instead been steady, purposeful and
well thought out – always holding true to guiding Roux
principles. The dishes of today bear little resemblance to
those presented in 1972; cleaner flavours, lighter sauces
and more focus on allowing the ingredients to speak for
themselves. The menus are still very much gastronomic,
in fact the pinnacle of gastronomy in the 21st century, just
as those of 1972 were the pinnacle of their time.
The lounge, the summer houses and the terrace
continue to be key parts of the ‘experience’ – the latter
two particularly in summer. The dining room is light and
airy with a view across the River Thames. Table 11, a
table for two, looking in on the restaurant from the
window is reserved for visiting local celebrities (such as
Terry Wogan and Michael Parkinson) and considered the
height of achievement for more mortal regulars.
The canapés arrive and, in spite of usually including a
foie gras concoction, remain light. The three course set
lunch is always consistent and for a Three Star
restaurant £40 is affordable. Upon being seated, still
mineral water is offered and if accepted is
complementary, sparkling is charged. The wine list is
not a mine field – there is considerable diversity thanks
to the expert knowledge and channelled enthusiasm of
Benoit Radenne; the customer has a good choice at
reasonable prices as well as the range of expected
heavyweights. The house policy is to buy en primeur and
as a result the Sommelier is invaluable in helping take
advantage of the restaurant’s educated gambles.
Plates arrive with silver domes, simultaneously lifted.
The Challandais duck is brought to the table and carved,
with the blade always moving toward the carver.
Cheeses are expertly explained and presented in
clockwise order of increasing strength. Ingenious desert
wine recommendations complement the variety of
puddings.
Michel Roux has now handed the baton to his son Alain,
even this has been gradual and smooth; the institution
continues to press forward without a blink. The Roux
scholarship still develops talent for the future and Michel
remains a Vice President of Relais & Chateaux – The
Waterside is one of the handful of Relais Gourmands in
the country. To him, life truly is, a menu.
Simply the Best (July 2004)
by Daniel Darwood, Co-Editor
What makes the perfect restaurant: a regularly changing
menu, with inventive, fashion conscious dishes: an army
of waiters ready to do one’s bidding at the click of the
fingers; luxurious seating, with chairs in the Louis XV
style; a glamorous cocktail bar; and a host of celebrities
eating regularly at their favourite tables?
The Waterside Inn has none of these. Its menu has
evolved at snail-like speed, with classics such as
Aiguillettes de Caneton Challandais featuring on the
carte. The waiting staff, although extensive, attends to
one’s every need without prompting. Apart from the
banquettes, the seating remains remarkably
unsophisticated, indeed slightly uncomfortable with
armless chairs. The bar doubles as the reception and
cash desk, with seating for a dozen and not a pre-
prandial drinks menu in sight.
Nevertheless, the Waterside, set idyllically on the bank of
the Thames, has been able to retain its three Michelin
rosettes – the pinnacle of gastronomic achievement - for
much longer than any establishment in the UK. Michel
and Alain Roux, co director Diego Masciaga and
restaurant manager Benoit Radenne understand
admirably the essential prerequisites for success at this
elevated level: a consistently high standard of cooking
using well sourced, impeccably fresh and seasonal
ingredients; a wine list that caters for the connoisseur
and those of more modest means in equal measure;
and a front of house team which maintains
professionalism without being intimidating.
Visits to the Waterside are occasions, not just meals out.
None of the times I have been there since 1976 has
failed to satisfy and each has been utterly memorable.
The curtain to this culinary theatre opens with a tray of
canapés – rich but not over complicated or heavy. The
bread rolls, unfortunately, are not in the same league,
with rubbery crusts and elastic texture. This is the only
gripe I have.
Diners can choose the menu Gastronomique (three
course, set) at lunch, the seven course Exceptionnel at
lunch or dinner, or choose from the Carte. The lunch
menu often involves for starters a soup – consommé or
veloute – and a terrine containing game and foie gras, all
amazingly light and perfectly balanced. They do not steal
the thunder of what is to follow. More ambitious dishes
such as sautéed foie gras with cherries can be sought
from the carte.
Main courses from the set menu offer fish or meat or
game or poultry. Consider, for instance, a perfectly timed
grilled fillet of salmon, cooked rare with a melting texture,
accompanied by a light jus, waffled potatoes and tiny
seasonal vegetables. This was a perfect summer dish.
For crustacean lovers, the lobster in ginger and white
port, garnished in spectacular fashion with the head, is
not to be missed, if choosing from the carte.
All of the restaurant’s shellfish are cooked to order from
the tank, so
benefiting from quick, intense cooking that avoids the
resulting dish having the texture of cotton wool. Meat and
game dishes are equally well executed. Ducks are
poached before being roasted rare and carved – with
masterly technique - into paper thin slices at the table.
Cheeses should not be seen merely as an alternative to
pudding, given the relative lightness of the two previous
courses. The trolley groans under an embarrassment of
riches, predominantly French: strong and mild, soft and
hard, cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses, all in
perfect condition.
Puddings, a Roux metier, show more evidence of
development than the savoury courses. Intensely
flavoured ice creams or sorbets often decorate these
composite and imaginative creations. For those who
have difficulty in choosing, the assiettes, whether fruit or
chocolate based, are ample for two and give an excellent
indication of the skills in preparing patisserie, mousses,
crèmes, and sables.
The petits fours that accompany the coffee initially appear
too much, but prove to be irresistible and delectable
morsels of chocolate, fruit, pastries, jellies and
macaroons.
Diego Masciaga oversees the front of house, welcoming
regulars and newcomers alike with his engaging charm.
Benoit Radenne, well known in the industry as an
excellent all-rounder, manages the restaurant cheerfully
and enthusiastically.
The staff’s attention to detail and a general awareness of
what is happening in the various parts of the building -
the restaurant, riverside terrace, the pagodas and the
lounge – ensure that the operation runs like a well oiled
machine, but one which retains individuality and the
personal touch.
The Waterside, now in the transition phase from Michel
Roux Senior to his son, Alain Roux, goes from strength to
strength, comfortable but not complacent in its disregard
for culinary fashions and fads.
by Daniel Darwood, Co-Editor
What makes the perfect restaurant: a regularly changing
menu, with inventive, fashion conscious dishes: an army
of waiters ready to do one’s bidding at the click of the
fingers; luxurious seating, with chairs in the Louis XV
style; a glamorous cocktail bar; and a host of celebrities
eating regularly at their favourite tables?
The Waterside Inn has none of these. Its menu has
evolved at snail-like speed, with classics such as
Aiguillettes de Caneton Challandais featuring on the
carte. The waiting staff, although extensive, attends to
one’s every need without prompting. Apart from the
banquettes, the seating remains remarkably
unsophisticated, indeed slightly uncomfortable with
armless chairs. The bar doubles as the reception and
cash desk, with seating for a dozen and not a pre-
prandial drinks menu in sight.
Nevertheless, the Waterside, set idyllically on the bank of
the Thames, has been able to retain its three Michelin
rosettes – the pinnacle of gastronomic achievement - for
much longer than any establishment in the UK. Michel
and Alain Roux, co director Diego Masciaga and
restaurant manager Benoit Radenne understand
admirably the essential prerequisites for success at this
elevated level: a consistently high standard of cooking
using well sourced, impeccably fresh and seasonal
ingredients; a wine list that caters for the connoisseur
and those of more modest means in equal measure;
and a front of house team which maintains
professionalism without being intimidating.
Visits to the Waterside are occasions, not just meals out.
None of the times I have been there since 1976 has
failed to satisfy and each has been utterly memorable.
The curtain to this culinary theatre opens with a tray of
canapés – rich but not over complicated or heavy. The
bread rolls, unfortunately, are not in the same league,
with rubbery crusts and elastic texture. This is the only
gripe I have.
Diners can choose the menu Gastronomique (three
course, set) at lunch, the seven course Exceptionnel at
lunch or dinner, or choose from the Carte. The lunch
menu often involves for starters a soup – consommé or
veloute – and a terrine containing game and foie gras, all
amazingly light and perfectly balanced. They do not steal
the thunder of what is to follow. More ambitious dishes
such as sautéed foie gras with cherries can be sought
from the carte.
Main courses from the set menu offer fish or meat or
game or poultry. Consider, for instance, a perfectly timed
grilled fillet of salmon, cooked rare with a melting texture,
accompanied by a light jus, waffled potatoes and tiny
seasonal vegetables. This was a perfect summer dish.
For crustacean lovers, the lobster in ginger and white
port, garnished in spectacular fashion with the head, is
not to be missed, if choosing from the carte.
All of the restaurant’s shellfish are cooked to order from
the tank, so
benefiting from quick, intense cooking that avoids the
resulting dish having the texture of cotton wool. Meat and
game dishes are equally well executed. Ducks are
poached before being roasted rare and carved – with
masterly technique - into paper thin slices at the table.
Cheeses should not be seen merely as an alternative to
pudding, given the relative lightness of the two previous
courses. The trolley groans under an embarrassment of
riches, predominantly French: strong and mild, soft and
hard, cow’s, goat’s and sheep’s milk cheeses, all in
perfect condition.
Puddings, a Roux metier, show more evidence of
development than the savoury courses. Intensely
flavoured ice creams or sorbets often decorate these
composite and imaginative creations. For those who
have difficulty in choosing, the assiettes, whether fruit or
chocolate based, are ample for two and give an excellent
indication of the skills in preparing patisserie, mousses,
crèmes, and sables.
The petits fours that accompany the coffee initially appear
too much, but prove to be irresistible and delectable
morsels of chocolate, fruit, pastries, jellies and
macaroons.
Diego Masciaga oversees the front of house, welcoming
regulars and newcomers alike with his engaging charm.
Benoit Radenne, well known in the industry as an
excellent all-rounder, manages the restaurant cheerfully
and enthusiastically.
The staff’s attention to detail and a general awareness of
what is happening in the various parts of the building -
the restaurant, riverside terrace, the pagodas and the
lounge – ensure that the operation runs like a well oiled
machine, but one which retains individuality and the
personal touch.
The Waterside, now in the transition phase from Michel
Roux Senior to his son, Alain Roux, goes from strength to
strength, comfortable but not complacent in its disregard
for culinary fashions and fads.
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