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Home The 1% Club Podcasts Editorial News Picture Gallery Two Views Sommelier Chef's Table Front-of-House Features Book Reviews Travel The Guides Michelin Guide Relais & Chateaux National Guides Europe 25 Contact |
A Progressive Sort. (July 2004)
by Daniel Darwood, Co-Editor
Davies Street, linking Berkeley Square and Oxford
Street, was, until a couple of years ago, hardly the
place to find restaurants of distinction. Yet now it has
become the St James’ Street of Mayfair, attracting
foodies to parts of central London usually reserved for
estate agents, galleries and specialist shops for the
upper classes.
Of the three major restaurants which can be found in
this quarter of a mile – Gordon Ramsay at Claridges
and Cipriani being the other two - Berkeley Square
Café can claim to be the best in terms of innovative
cooking, efficient service and value for money.
Steven Black, lately of Eastwell Manor, and his sous
chef Richard Hugle (the latter having worked in
several Michelin Starred kitchens), lead a small but
dedicated team, producing dishes worthy of much
larger establishments.
Front of house can be the delightful and welcoming
Merete Black or the surly and distant Joseph
McColgan. The dining room has well spaced tables, is
subtly lit and exudes a sense of style. Don’t bother to
have a drink in the downstairs bar which is ill lit and
furnished with the most uncomfortable low back
swivel bucket chairs. Instead, seek the advice of the
engaging sommelier Benoit Gueret whose
experience at L’Ortolan and 1837 has stood him in
good stead.
On the a la carte menu, a bargain at £45, expect as an
amuse bouche a tasse of intensely flavoured soup –
gaspacho, tomato or lentil. The starter dishes which
follow are amongst the most satisfying, combining
measured creativity with maximising tastes. The
Cornish Crab risotto with plum tomato sorbet and
frozen olive oil exemplifies this perfectly: the sorbet
and oil provided the contrast in texture and taste,
whilst the generous use of brown crab meat added
depth of flavour to the risotto itself. The seared
scallops and foie gras with pea puree were perfectly
executed if somewhat passé by today’s frantically
changing standards.
Main courses include at least three fish dishes, beef,
lamb and poultry. The roasted breast of Welsh Black
Mountain organic chicken retained its moistness and
gamey flavour. Its accompaniments – an open herb
raviolo of confit thigh, carrot and tarragon salad and a
light pea sauce enhanced the dish perfectly, although I
must admit I could done with a little more sauce. This
might also be said of the perfectly cooked Aberdeen
Angus beef dishes, which have been garnished, at
different times, with red wine dressing, foie gras,
snails or cepes. This however, is a small grumble
given the meal as a whole.
Puddings are a triumph of artistry and taste. The
“tasting of raspberry” comprised a sable, parfait,
mousse and the fresh fruit in an utterly harmonious
combination that delighted both eye and tongue.
Warm fondant of chocolate is amongst the best that
can be found in London. The kitchen is also able to be
flexible - on a previous visit, a request for something
simpler produced a plate of exquisite, intensely
flavoured sorbets.
The Café - a major understatement given its
accomplished cooking – offers a range of menus to
suit all pockets and tastes. Our last visit saw a
crowded restaurant, indicating it is now receiving the
recognition it fully deserves.
by Daniel Darwood, Co-Editor
Davies Street, linking Berkeley Square and Oxford
Street, was, until a couple of years ago, hardly the
place to find restaurants of distinction. Yet now it has
become the St James’ Street of Mayfair, attracting
foodies to parts of central London usually reserved for
estate agents, galleries and specialist shops for the
upper classes.
Of the three major restaurants which can be found in
this quarter of a mile – Gordon Ramsay at Claridges
and Cipriani being the other two - Berkeley Square
Café can claim to be the best in terms of innovative
cooking, efficient service and value for money.
Steven Black, lately of Eastwell Manor, and his sous
chef Richard Hugle (the latter having worked in
several Michelin Starred kitchens), lead a small but
dedicated team, producing dishes worthy of much
larger establishments.
Front of house can be the delightful and welcoming
Merete Black or the surly and distant Joseph
McColgan. The dining room has well spaced tables, is
subtly lit and exudes a sense of style. Don’t bother to
have a drink in the downstairs bar which is ill lit and
furnished with the most uncomfortable low back
swivel bucket chairs. Instead, seek the advice of the
engaging sommelier Benoit Gueret whose
experience at L’Ortolan and 1837 has stood him in
good stead.
On the a la carte menu, a bargain at £45, expect as an
amuse bouche a tasse of intensely flavoured soup –
gaspacho, tomato or lentil. The starter dishes which
follow are amongst the most satisfying, combining
measured creativity with maximising tastes. The
Cornish Crab risotto with plum tomato sorbet and
frozen olive oil exemplifies this perfectly: the sorbet
and oil provided the contrast in texture and taste,
whilst the generous use of brown crab meat added
depth of flavour to the risotto itself. The seared
scallops and foie gras with pea puree were perfectly
executed if somewhat passé by today’s frantically
changing standards.
Main courses include at least three fish dishes, beef,
lamb and poultry. The roasted breast of Welsh Black
Mountain organic chicken retained its moistness and
gamey flavour. Its accompaniments – an open herb
raviolo of confit thigh, carrot and tarragon salad and a
light pea sauce enhanced the dish perfectly, although I
must admit I could done with a little more sauce. This
might also be said of the perfectly cooked Aberdeen
Angus beef dishes, which have been garnished, at
different times, with red wine dressing, foie gras,
snails or cepes. This however, is a small grumble
given the meal as a whole.
Puddings are a triumph of artistry and taste. The
“tasting of raspberry” comprised a sable, parfait,
mousse and the fresh fruit in an utterly harmonious
combination that delighted both eye and tongue.
Warm fondant of chocolate is amongst the best that
can be found in London. The kitchen is also able to be
flexible - on a previous visit, a request for something
simpler produced a plate of exquisite, intensely
flavoured sorbets.
The Café - a major understatement given its
accomplished cooking – offers a range of menus to
suit all pockets and tastes. Our last visit saw a
crowded restaurant, indicating it is now receiving the
recognition it fully deserves.
Don't Leave it to the Last Minute. (July 2004)
by Simon Carter, Co-Editor
A mere 50 yard walk along the road from Berkeley
Square Cafe will take you past a host of chauffeurs
waiting patiently in luxury hardware, the pavement
replete with tabloid photographers. No, they are not
there for this restaurant, but for Cipriani - a place
where the experience for the fashionable comes
before food for the foodie. It is somewhat ironic that, in
such proximity, Vince Power's money funds the
gastronomic Berkeley Square Cafe - Mr Power is a
man more typically associated with The London
Astoria and the Glastonbury and Reading Festivals.
Having driven to this part of Mayfair on a weekday
evening, a sure plus is the choice of free parking
around the square.
This occasion was no different and we walked into the
restaurant bang on time. This was to be our seventh
visit of 2004, perhaps not due to The London
Newcomer of the Year Award in The Good Food
Guide, but more the Toptable.co.uk and
Lastminute.com promotions.
Business must have been slow for Merete and Steven
Black so at the turn of the year they had the marketing
idea of offering the £45 three course Carte at
significant discounts. After early Toptable.co.uk 70%
discount before 7pm, they still today, offer
Lastminute.com bookings with 50% discounts from
the Carte.
Steven Black has a pedigree of cooking at up-market
country houses - Thornbury Castle, Chewton Glenn
and Eastwell Manor. The style is very much 'respect
the ingredients, respect the jus.'
Unnecessaryenhancements, combinations or fusions
are avoided - quality ingredients well cooked have
flavours, textures and natural sauces that speak for
themselves. A clean and refreshing approach in an
age of complexity, over-elaboration and scientific
cooking. For example; a generous fillet of Aberdeen
Angus Beef with Cepes, Asparagus and a bunch of
Cherry Tomatoes still on the vine; sweet, seared
scallops (presumably hand dived) with a fine helping
of melt-in-the-mouth pan fried foie gras.
The simply roasted Welsh Black Mountain Organic
Chicken was my choice for the main course. The
meat retained its moisture and the quality was evident
from the burst of flavour that lingered on the palate. An
open ravioli of confit thigh on the side was sweet and
succulent.
Throughout the year the kitchen has noticeably
stepped up in class and consistency; as has the
front-of-house with the astute hiring of the Sommelier
Benoit Gueret - formerly of 1837 and L'Ortolan - who
is as good with customers as he is with the wine.
The restaurant was packed for the evening - at least
70 covers - testament to promotions backed by
quality. In fact the cooking staff of eight have done well
to retain high standards so effectively, working as they
have in what can best be described as a galley
kitchen. What is more, the puddings have
demonstrated complexity and imagination as strings
to their bow - The Tasting of Raspberries and Assiette
of Banana provide a variety of tastes and textures in
creative style. I went for my standard chocolate
fondant and was more than satisfied.
As you might imagine £22.50 for three courses of
such quality is irresistible, at £45 the menu would still
represent value, and by the time you read this, that
may be what you pay. Should the restaurant remain
on the same path then I'm sure Berkeley Square Cafe
will be a high climber in the 2005 1% Club, and if not
next January then the January after, the Michelin Star
will come, perhaps long after Cipriani has closed.
by Simon Carter, Co-Editor
A mere 50 yard walk along the road from Berkeley
Square Cafe will take you past a host of chauffeurs
waiting patiently in luxury hardware, the pavement
replete with tabloid photographers. No, they are not
there for this restaurant, but for Cipriani - a place
where the experience for the fashionable comes
before food for the foodie. It is somewhat ironic that, in
such proximity, Vince Power's money funds the
gastronomic Berkeley Square Cafe - Mr Power is a
man more typically associated with The London
Astoria and the Glastonbury and Reading Festivals.
Having driven to this part of Mayfair on a weekday
evening, a sure plus is the choice of free parking
around the square.
This occasion was no different and we walked into the
restaurant bang on time. This was to be our seventh
visit of 2004, perhaps not due to The London
Newcomer of the Year Award in The Good Food
Guide, but more the Toptable.co.uk and
Lastminute.com promotions.
Business must have been slow for Merete and Steven
Black so at the turn of the year they had the marketing
idea of offering the £45 three course Carte at
significant discounts. After early Toptable.co.uk 70%
discount before 7pm, they still today, offer
Lastminute.com bookings with 50% discounts from
the Carte.
Steven Black has a pedigree of cooking at up-market
country houses - Thornbury Castle, Chewton Glenn
and Eastwell Manor. The style is very much 'respect
the ingredients, respect the jus.'
Unnecessaryenhancements, combinations or fusions
are avoided - quality ingredients well cooked have
flavours, textures and natural sauces that speak for
themselves. A clean and refreshing approach in an
age of complexity, over-elaboration and scientific
cooking. For example; a generous fillet of Aberdeen
Angus Beef with Cepes, Asparagus and a bunch of
Cherry Tomatoes still on the vine; sweet, seared
scallops (presumably hand dived) with a fine helping
of melt-in-the-mouth pan fried foie gras.
The simply roasted Welsh Black Mountain Organic
Chicken was my choice for the main course. The
meat retained its moisture and the quality was evident
from the burst of flavour that lingered on the palate. An
open ravioli of confit thigh on the side was sweet and
succulent.
Throughout the year the kitchen has noticeably
stepped up in class and consistency; as has the
front-of-house with the astute hiring of the Sommelier
Benoit Gueret - formerly of 1837 and L'Ortolan - who
is as good with customers as he is with the wine.
The restaurant was packed for the evening - at least
70 covers - testament to promotions backed by
quality. In fact the cooking staff of eight have done well
to retain high standards so effectively, working as they
have in what can best be described as a galley
kitchen. What is more, the puddings have
demonstrated complexity and imagination as strings
to their bow - The Tasting of Raspberries and Assiette
of Banana provide a variety of tastes and textures in
creative style. I went for my standard chocolate
fondant and was more than satisfied.
As you might imagine £22.50 for three courses of
such quality is irresistible, at £45 the menu would still
represent value, and by the time you read this, that
may be what you pay. Should the restaurant remain
on the same path then I'm sure Berkeley Square Cafe
will be a high climber in the 2005 1% Club, and if not
next January then the January after, the Michelin Star
will come, perhaps long after Cipriani has closed.
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