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| Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir; Visiting, Sleeping & Eating - Menu Découverte (2010) |
Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons (2010)
fine-dining-guide was privileged to meet Raymond Blanc over
breakfast, to hear his latest ideas for Le Manoir.
Almost breathless with enthusiasm, he tells us of changes to the
restaurant seating, redecoration of some of the courtyard rooms,
and plans for a spa and a thousand-tree orchard.
Famed for his meticulous attention for detail – “excellence is the
accumulation of seemingly inconsequential, minor and weightless
details” – he is on his way to London to choose materials for one of
his thirty two individually designed rooms. Clearly, his creative
genius shows no signs of abating - if anything the reverse. As his
vision for Le Manoir nears completion, so a renewed energy and
drive are much in evidence.
breakfast, to hear his latest ideas for Le Manoir.
Almost breathless with enthusiasm, he tells us of changes to the
restaurant seating, redecoration of some of the courtyard rooms,
and plans for a spa and a thousand-tree orchard.
Famed for his meticulous attention for detail – “excellence is the
accumulation of seemingly inconsequential, minor and weightless
details” – he is on his way to London to choose materials for one of
his thirty two individually designed rooms. Clearly, his creative
genius shows no signs of abating - if anything the reverse. As his
vision for Le Manoir nears completion, so a renewed energy and
drive are much in evidence.
| ------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
It is now over twenty five years since Raymond Blanc moved from
his small restaurant in a shopping parade in Summertown to this
elegant, honey coloured manor house in rural Oxfordshire.
This period has seen major building projects: the magnificent
conservatory extension to the restaurant, the private dining room,
new kitchens, the Cookery School, the garden wing rooms, and the
remodeled entrance and car park. Vegetable, herb and tea
gardens, beautiful lawns, and delightful walks, with access to a
Japanese tea house and Orangerie, bear witness to the mature
development of the estate.
As a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux group, Le Manoir
combines the traditional with the modern. All the extensions are in
harmony with the original house. The masculine exterior is
balanced by feminine interior designs, especially in the courtyard
wing.
his small restaurant in a shopping parade in Summertown to this
elegant, honey coloured manor house in rural Oxfordshire.
This period has seen major building projects: the magnificent
conservatory extension to the restaurant, the private dining room,
new kitchens, the Cookery School, the garden wing rooms, and the
remodeled entrance and car park. Vegetable, herb and tea
gardens, beautiful lawns, and delightful walks, with access to a
Japanese tea house and Orangerie, bear witness to the mature
development of the estate.
As a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux group, Le Manoir
combines the traditional with the modern. All the extensions are in
harmony with the original house. The masculine exterior is
balanced by feminine interior designs, especially in the courtyard
wing.
Raymond Blanc
The Anais suite in which I stayed has a romantic feel, with its glass fronted real wood fire, contemporary erotic painting,
glass sculpture, female manikin and “do not disturb” red bow. Impeccable attention to detail is shown in the thoughtful
additional touches: candles in the marbled bathroom; fruit, water and Madeira; note pads and pens by each telephone. The
technically minded are considered too with an iPod docking station and complimentary broadband Wifi access. To ensure
maximum comfort, guests are contacted before their stay to express a preference for blankets or duvets, and, in turning
down the bed, the maid leaves a small bottle of pillow spray.
Rooms in the main building are decorated and appointed in a more classical design as befits their historical character. The
Botticelli room, for instance, has an exquisite bathroom - accessed up a spiral staircase - with two facing Victorian claw
footed baths. The Dovecot, once used to store the restaurant’s mineral water, has been converted to a split level suite,
complete with oak beams and mirrored views of the croquet lawn.
However, the climax to any visit to Le Manoir must be eating the food that made Raymond Blanc a world renowned chef.
This too shows no signs of waning. Over aperitifs and canapés in one of the three luxuriously appointed lounges, the diner
can peruse a menu that offers an embarrassment of choice, from the three course menu du jour at week day lunches,
through the carte, to the nine course menu decouvérte, which features many of the newer dishes.
The original restaurant comprising two interconnecting rooms has been more than doubled in size by a high pitched
conservatory, which exhibits an enchanting glow in the evening and commands a clear view of the gardens during the day.
Well spaced tables, excellent acoustics – a boon in a busy restaurant – and helpful, knowledgeable service, also make this
the perfect platform for Raymond’s culinary delights.
Freshness and seasonality are enduring hallmarks of Le Manoir’s dishes. The extensive organic vegetable and herb
gardens provide most of the kitchen’s needs. The finely tuned cooking is based on classic French techniques, with a
lighter, more contemporary touch, whilst revealing elements of fusion in some dishes. Flavours are clean and the
presentation is finished with conscious artistry. Luxuries such as caviar, truffles and foie gras often appear, but always to
elevate and enhance.
For those opting for the menu découverte, constant interruptions to announce each dish are avoided by an accompanying
menu; indeed the diner has to request announcements if they so wish. The sourcing of the top rate ingredients is hugely
important to Raymond, so it is no surprise that this is given in detail:
The menu decouverte opens with a tartare of wild yellow fin Indian Ocean tuna with a Japanese savoury custard of exquisite
velvety texture which complements the delicate fish perfectly.
A confit and parfait of Landais foie gras has all the richness one would expect, but this is balanced by a pineapple and
vanilla chutney, with sour dough toast replacing the more traditional brioche.
Plancha seared hand –dived scallops from Loch Leven arrive with a smoky caramelisation that enhances their taste and
texture. Cauliflower puree and curry oil bring the dish together in a trinity of harmonious flavours.
Wytham Farm free range poached hen’s egg is the star of the next course, which shows confidence in the use of an
excellent but basic main ingredient. The Jerusalem artichoke foam with pickled mushrooms and winter truffle add elegance
and richness.
The sixth course features a stunning fillet of wild Cornish gill-netted brill (above). Braised to a melting tenderness, it is
topped with a generous portion of caviar, covering a native oyster which adds a contrasting freshness and texture. The
seafood is lifted by a wasabi beurre blanc which stimulates our nasal senses but does not overpower the dish. This was a
most refined plate, exciting in its conception and brilliant in its execution.
By comparison, the meat course does not reach such heights, but is still very good. Roasted Goognargh duck breast
(above) is perfectly timed to a medium rare to produce a distinct but gentle gaminess. The richness of this dish is
moderated by being cooked without the skin, with contrasting accompaniments of caramelised chicory and mandarin curd
Cheeses are exemplary, as seen in a tasting of brillat-savarin, mont d’or and epoisses, confirmed their perfect condition of
ripeness. (This is an optional extra course)
Three desserts demonstrate the excellence of the pastry section. Whilst the exotic fruit “raviole” with kaffir lime leaf and
coconut jus shows eastern influences, the pear Almondine , caramel croustillant and ginger reverts to more classical
French roots. “Coeur de Guanaja” chocolate cremeux with cocoa “grue” nougatine and coffee foam provides a rich and
indulgent finish.
Excellent coffee and petit-fours complete an exceptional meal. The wine list features over a thousand bins, with an
abundance of Burgundy and Bordeaux but also featuring many from the New World. The sommelier is also happy to
suggest glasses or wine to match as few or as many courses as the diner wishes. For instance, the Riesling Grand Cru
from Alsace (2005) proves a perfect accompaniment with brill, whilst the Côte Rôtie from the northern Rhône (2004) stands
up well to the robust flavours of the duck.
As with all top flight restaurants, but even more so with Le Manoir, this is a total experience which engages all the senses
and will be remembered for many years to come. Quality of this level does not come cheap, but the value for money is
unquestioned.
Review by Daniel Darwood, January 2010.
glass sculpture, female manikin and “do not disturb” red bow. Impeccable attention to detail is shown in the thoughtful
additional touches: candles in the marbled bathroom; fruit, water and Madeira; note pads and pens by each telephone. The
technically minded are considered too with an iPod docking station and complimentary broadband Wifi access. To ensure
maximum comfort, guests are contacted before their stay to express a preference for blankets or duvets, and, in turning
down the bed, the maid leaves a small bottle of pillow spray.
Rooms in the main building are decorated and appointed in a more classical design as befits their historical character. The
Botticelli room, for instance, has an exquisite bathroom - accessed up a spiral staircase - with two facing Victorian claw
footed baths. The Dovecot, once used to store the restaurant’s mineral water, has been converted to a split level suite,
complete with oak beams and mirrored views of the croquet lawn.
However, the climax to any visit to Le Manoir must be eating the food that made Raymond Blanc a world renowned chef.
This too shows no signs of waning. Over aperitifs and canapés in one of the three luxuriously appointed lounges, the diner
can peruse a menu that offers an embarrassment of choice, from the three course menu du jour at week day lunches,
through the carte, to the nine course menu decouvérte, which features many of the newer dishes.
The original restaurant comprising two interconnecting rooms has been more than doubled in size by a high pitched
conservatory, which exhibits an enchanting glow in the evening and commands a clear view of the gardens during the day.
Well spaced tables, excellent acoustics – a boon in a busy restaurant – and helpful, knowledgeable service, also make this
the perfect platform for Raymond’s culinary delights.
Freshness and seasonality are enduring hallmarks of Le Manoir’s dishes. The extensive organic vegetable and herb
gardens provide most of the kitchen’s needs. The finely tuned cooking is based on classic French techniques, with a
lighter, more contemporary touch, whilst revealing elements of fusion in some dishes. Flavours are clean and the
presentation is finished with conscious artistry. Luxuries such as caviar, truffles and foie gras often appear, but always to
elevate and enhance.
For those opting for the menu découverte, constant interruptions to announce each dish are avoided by an accompanying
menu; indeed the diner has to request announcements if they so wish. The sourcing of the top rate ingredients is hugely
important to Raymond, so it is no surprise that this is given in detail:
The menu decouverte opens with a tartare of wild yellow fin Indian Ocean tuna with a Japanese savoury custard of exquisite
velvety texture which complements the delicate fish perfectly.
A confit and parfait of Landais foie gras has all the richness one would expect, but this is balanced by a pineapple and
vanilla chutney, with sour dough toast replacing the more traditional brioche.
Plancha seared hand –dived scallops from Loch Leven arrive with a smoky caramelisation that enhances their taste and
texture. Cauliflower puree and curry oil bring the dish together in a trinity of harmonious flavours.
Wytham Farm free range poached hen’s egg is the star of the next course, which shows confidence in the use of an
excellent but basic main ingredient. The Jerusalem artichoke foam with pickled mushrooms and winter truffle add elegance
and richness.
The sixth course features a stunning fillet of wild Cornish gill-netted brill (above). Braised to a melting tenderness, it is
topped with a generous portion of caviar, covering a native oyster which adds a contrasting freshness and texture. The
seafood is lifted by a wasabi beurre blanc which stimulates our nasal senses but does not overpower the dish. This was a
most refined plate, exciting in its conception and brilliant in its execution.
By comparison, the meat course does not reach such heights, but is still very good. Roasted Goognargh duck breast
(above) is perfectly timed to a medium rare to produce a distinct but gentle gaminess. The richness of this dish is
moderated by being cooked without the skin, with contrasting accompaniments of caramelised chicory and mandarin curd
Cheeses are exemplary, as seen in a tasting of brillat-savarin, mont d’or and epoisses, confirmed their perfect condition of
ripeness. (This is an optional extra course)
Three desserts demonstrate the excellence of the pastry section. Whilst the exotic fruit “raviole” with kaffir lime leaf and
coconut jus shows eastern influences, the pear Almondine , caramel croustillant and ginger reverts to more classical
French roots. “Coeur de Guanaja” chocolate cremeux with cocoa “grue” nougatine and coffee foam provides a rich and
indulgent finish.
Excellent coffee and petit-fours complete an exceptional meal. The wine list features over a thousand bins, with an
abundance of Burgundy and Bordeaux but also featuring many from the New World. The sommelier is also happy to
suggest glasses or wine to match as few or as many courses as the diner wishes. For instance, the Riesling Grand Cru
from Alsace (2005) proves a perfect accompaniment with brill, whilst the Côte Rôtie from the northern Rhône (2004) stands
up well to the robust flavours of the duck.
As with all top flight restaurants, but even more so with Le Manoir, this is a total experience which engages all the senses
and will be remembered for many years to come. Quality of this level does not come cheap, but the value for money is
unquestioned.
Review by Daniel Darwood, January 2010.
| See Raymond Blanc Cookery School Review 2010 |
Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons is hosting an elegant evening to celebrate the prestigious Perrier Jouët
Champagne collection on Thursday 25 February, for more information contact Le Manoir on 01844 278881.
Le Manoir website can be found at www.manoir.com, which is also referenced from www.raymondblanc.com
Champagne collection on Thursday 25 February, for more information contact Le Manoir on 01844 278881.
Le Manoir website can be found at www.manoir.com, which is also referenced from www.raymondblanc.com