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Les Crayeres - Reims
by Mark Geffryes. August 2005
by Mark Geffryes. August 2005
For years Chateaux Les Crayères has been the pinnacle, for me, of fine dining. It
combined a glorious chateau set in its own spacious grounds, with Michelin 3 star
cooking, professional and attentive staff, and an excellent value seasonal menu. And, of
course, being in Reims, in the heart of Champagne, it is obligatory to experiment with their
vast selection of Champagnes. Les Crayères has been a Relais and Châteaux property
for more than 20 years and the accommodation is opulent; standing comparison with the
best 5 star hotels.
For 10 years, whenever the opportunity arose, I contrived a detour to include an evening
meal at Les Crayères. And until 2003, when Gerard Boyer and his wife retired, every time I
visited there was always a feeling of calm that everything was under control and no
request was too much trouble. M and Mme Boyer came round to the tables and checked
that everyone was happy even les Anglais with a modicum of French. The diners were a
mixture of foodies, families out for a special occasion, local business people and
travellers wanting to experience the best the region can offer.
When M Boyer retired he handed the reins to his very able team headed by Thierry Voisin
who continued to follow the tried and tested menus that had kept Les Crayères at the top
of Michelin’s rating for years. However, Michelin did dock one of their 3 stars. Typically the
menu would include an extensive a la carte featuring foies gras, caviar, truffles, the finest
local produce, and a number of seasonal menus including an excellent vegetarian choice.
But the obvious choice was the 8 course Dégustation, which together with a bottle of
Champagne and a half bottle of, for example, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, cost less than 200
euros per person. For an extra 12 euros per person the bottle of non vintage champagne
could be upgraded to a bottle such as Verve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1995 or Pommery
Louise 1989, meaning the vintage fizz was cheaper than could be bought in the
supermarket. A bargain!
In 2005 ‘Les Crayères Gérard Boyer’ became ‘Château Les Crayères’. Many of the original
staff remain, the dining room, conservatories and terrace are as splendid as ever, the
service is good, but the soul is no longer there. The new chef Didier Elena has been given
the opportunity to revamp the menu, which has been rationalised and the prices have
risen. The guests are now mainly business people and tourists, the locals may still dine
here but not in the numbers they used to - this was confirmed by locals we spoke to.
The latest visit started well: Seated on the terrace with a glass of vintage champagne,
looking towards the sun setting over the church spires of Reims, the menus arrive.
Correction, menu and wine list arrive. The choice has been curtailed and no separate
vegetarian menu is now available. The amuse bouches are pleasant, safe is probably a
better word.
The ‘Invitation Gourmande’ has a standard option at 130 euros for 3 courses or 150 euros
for 4, with a seasonal 6 course menu for 180 euros. I opt for the Foie Gras de canard with
shaved white mushrooms and black truffle and vin d’orange, followed by Homard Bleu on
wilted leaves, onions and grapes, a main course of Boeuf with foie gras Rossini, and
curiously I am asked to choose a dessert, I go for the palate cleansing Citron de Menton.
From the extensive wine list choose a bottle of Gosset NV to accompany the meal.
We ask about vegetarian alternatives and the waiter goes to check what options the
kitchen can offer. The waiter brings back the chef’s suggestions, but doesn’t include the
excellent Truffe en Croute or Truffle with potato dishes that M Boyer used to provide. A
request for truffles to be included is denied on the basis that they are not available, but a
forest mushroom dish is offered instead. Strange that truffles feature on the main menu,
maybe some dishes are not prepared in the kitchens?
Chefs are often dismissive of the needs of vegetarians, but I do feel the sign of a good
chef is the ability, and willingness, to provide for their customer’s individual requests.
There are many vegetarians who enjoy fine dining and often a party of diners will include
varying dietary requirements or preferences.
The pre starter is a lovely gazpacho topped with mollusc medley. The Invitation
Gourmande is good Michelin 2 star fare, no surprises good or bad. The Fois Gras plate is
good but not as inspired as Palatte des 5 Fois Gras of M Boyer. The Homard Bleu is
succulent and delicate, but unless you have decided to have the four course option you
would be left hungry with this as a main course. The Piece de Boeuf is partnered by a
large slice of fois gras and a truffle and pate buttered slice on a separate plate. The only
vegetables provided, in a small copper pan, are potatoes roasted in goose fat which are a
triumph. We ask for another helping for my wife, as her vegetarian main course appears to
comprise a starter size portion of carrot and beans, unfortunately the word from the kitchen
is that as it would take 15 minutes to prepare they decide not to provide them. The Citron
dessert is a pleasant lemon sorbet filled boiled lemon, again good but not inspired. We
don’t bother with coffee and finish with petits fours. We catch glimpses of Didier Elena as
we pass through the reception area but he doesn’t venture into the dining room to meet
his public.
The bill is almost exactly 50% more than the previous year, if you adjust for less wine and
non vintage rather than vintage champagne, for an inferior meal. My impression is that
whereas I had always viewed Les Crayères as a top restaurant with rooms it has now
become a hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant. It would not surprise me if they planned
to open a spa next.
Didier Elena’s pedigree is excellent having run the kitchens for Alain Ducasse in both his
New York and Monaco restaurants. But, despite his impressive experience, he will be
compared unfavourably to Gerard Boyer by regulars and I can’t help feel that many, like
me, will choose to try elsewhere next time.
combined a glorious chateau set in its own spacious grounds, with Michelin 3 star
cooking, professional and attentive staff, and an excellent value seasonal menu. And, of
course, being in Reims, in the heart of Champagne, it is obligatory to experiment with their
vast selection of Champagnes. Les Crayères has been a Relais and Châteaux property
for more than 20 years and the accommodation is opulent; standing comparison with the
best 5 star hotels.
For 10 years, whenever the opportunity arose, I contrived a detour to include an evening
meal at Les Crayères. And until 2003, when Gerard Boyer and his wife retired, every time I
visited there was always a feeling of calm that everything was under control and no
request was too much trouble. M and Mme Boyer came round to the tables and checked
that everyone was happy even les Anglais with a modicum of French. The diners were a
mixture of foodies, families out for a special occasion, local business people and
travellers wanting to experience the best the region can offer.
When M Boyer retired he handed the reins to his very able team headed by Thierry Voisin
who continued to follow the tried and tested menus that had kept Les Crayères at the top
of Michelin’s rating for years. However, Michelin did dock one of their 3 stars. Typically the
menu would include an extensive a la carte featuring foies gras, caviar, truffles, the finest
local produce, and a number of seasonal menus including an excellent vegetarian choice.
But the obvious choice was the 8 course Dégustation, which together with a bottle of
Champagne and a half bottle of, for example, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, cost less than 200
euros per person. For an extra 12 euros per person the bottle of non vintage champagne
could be upgraded to a bottle such as Verve Clicquot La Grande Dame 1995 or Pommery
Louise 1989, meaning the vintage fizz was cheaper than could be bought in the
supermarket. A bargain!
In 2005 ‘Les Crayères Gérard Boyer’ became ‘Château Les Crayères’. Many of the original
staff remain, the dining room, conservatories and terrace are as splendid as ever, the
service is good, but the soul is no longer there. The new chef Didier Elena has been given
the opportunity to revamp the menu, which has been rationalised and the prices have
risen. The guests are now mainly business people and tourists, the locals may still dine
here but not in the numbers they used to - this was confirmed by locals we spoke to.
The latest visit started well: Seated on the terrace with a glass of vintage champagne,
looking towards the sun setting over the church spires of Reims, the menus arrive.
Correction, menu and wine list arrive. The choice has been curtailed and no separate
vegetarian menu is now available. The amuse bouches are pleasant, safe is probably a
better word.
The ‘Invitation Gourmande’ has a standard option at 130 euros for 3 courses or 150 euros
for 4, with a seasonal 6 course menu for 180 euros. I opt for the Foie Gras de canard with
shaved white mushrooms and black truffle and vin d’orange, followed by Homard Bleu on
wilted leaves, onions and grapes, a main course of Boeuf with foie gras Rossini, and
curiously I am asked to choose a dessert, I go for the palate cleansing Citron de Menton.
From the extensive wine list choose a bottle of Gosset NV to accompany the meal.
We ask about vegetarian alternatives and the waiter goes to check what options the
kitchen can offer. The waiter brings back the chef’s suggestions, but doesn’t include the
excellent Truffe en Croute or Truffle with potato dishes that M Boyer used to provide. A
request for truffles to be included is denied on the basis that they are not available, but a
forest mushroom dish is offered instead. Strange that truffles feature on the main menu,
maybe some dishes are not prepared in the kitchens?
Chefs are often dismissive of the needs of vegetarians, but I do feel the sign of a good
chef is the ability, and willingness, to provide for their customer’s individual requests.
There are many vegetarians who enjoy fine dining and often a party of diners will include
varying dietary requirements or preferences.
The pre starter is a lovely gazpacho topped with mollusc medley. The Invitation
Gourmande is good Michelin 2 star fare, no surprises good or bad. The Fois Gras plate is
good but not as inspired as Palatte des 5 Fois Gras of M Boyer. The Homard Bleu is
succulent and delicate, but unless you have decided to have the four course option you
would be left hungry with this as a main course. The Piece de Boeuf is partnered by a
large slice of fois gras and a truffle and pate buttered slice on a separate plate. The only
vegetables provided, in a small copper pan, are potatoes roasted in goose fat which are a
triumph. We ask for another helping for my wife, as her vegetarian main course appears to
comprise a starter size portion of carrot and beans, unfortunately the word from the kitchen
is that as it would take 15 minutes to prepare they decide not to provide them. The Citron
dessert is a pleasant lemon sorbet filled boiled lemon, again good but not inspired. We
don’t bother with coffee and finish with petits fours. We catch glimpses of Didier Elena as
we pass through the reception area but he doesn’t venture into the dining room to meet
his public.
The bill is almost exactly 50% more than the previous year, if you adjust for less wine and
non vintage rather than vintage champagne, for an inferior meal. My impression is that
whereas I had always viewed Les Crayères as a top restaurant with rooms it has now
become a hotel with a Michelin starred restaurant. It would not surprise me if they planned
to open a spa next.
Didier Elena’s pedigree is excellent having run the kitchens for Alain Ducasse in both his
New York and Monaco restaurants. But, despite his impressive experience, he will be
compared unfavourably to Gerard Boyer by regulars and I can’t help feel that many, like
me, will choose to try elsewhere next time.
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