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Le Jardin des Remparts - Beaune
by Daniel Darwood. August 2004
by Daniel Darwood. August 2004
The Cote D'Or is home to some of the greatest red and white wine of the world; a
landscape of untouched rural villages set in a seeming ocean of gently rolling
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines. The Cote de Nuits to the north, more famed for its reds
and The Cote de Beaune to the south, with its abundance of Grands Cru Whites. The town
of Beaune is not just famous for wine but in its own right for medieval architecture,
including the magnificently tiled roofs of the hospice Hotel-Dieu.
The seven course Menu Decouverte (75E) is the best way of experiencing the range of
techniques and tastes on offer. This gastronomic extravaganza began boldly with the
chef's signature dish, Tartare de Charolais aux huitres, ecume de mer. The two raw
ingredients worked well together, their creamy textures offset by the natural juices of the
oysters that did, indeed, taste of the sea. This was a deeply satisfying dish both in concept
and in its execution. Less successful was the Gelee de langoustines aux poireaux et
coriander which contained sweet, rare crustaceans with a cold gelatinous poaching liquor
– the latter being too excessive - spiked with leek and coriander strands. Next came the
Risotto Carnarolli. This proved a taste sensation, generously flavoured as the dish was
with summer truffles and parmesan. Delicately poached, well flavoured sea bass came
with a quenelle of fennel puree and black sesame seeds, both providing a contrast in
taste and texture. Seared duck foie gras with white olives and basil, jus d’arachide was
meltingly indulgent. Roast pigeon a la berce was cooked to a beautifully tender medium
rare, with baby turnips, radishes and black cherries. The cheeses were impressive in
their variety and condition, whilst the desserts were imaginative and inventive, including
sautéed strawberries with pepper and olive oil. Incidentals such as bread, amuses-
bouches and petits fours were all top-notch reflecting meticulous preparation and
attention to detail.
Dishes were fully described without being patronising to foreigners. Overall, this was a
restaurant of a high order: the freshness and quality of the ingredients; the creativity
of the menu; the well balanced wine list and the efficiency and professionalism of the
service all contributed to Le Jardin’s success. Given 17/20 in Gault Millault for 2004, it can
justifiably look forward to its second Michelin star next year.
landscape of untouched rural villages set in a seeming ocean of gently rolling
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines. The Cote de Nuits to the north, more famed for its reds
and The Cote de Beaune to the south, with its abundance of Grands Cru Whites. The town
of Beaune is not just famous for wine but in its own right for medieval architecture,
including the magnificently tiled roofs of the hospice Hotel-Dieu.
The seven course Menu Decouverte (75E) is the best way of experiencing the range of
techniques and tastes on offer. This gastronomic extravaganza began boldly with the
chef's signature dish, Tartare de Charolais aux huitres, ecume de mer. The two raw
ingredients worked well together, their creamy textures offset by the natural juices of the
oysters that did, indeed, taste of the sea. This was a deeply satisfying dish both in concept
and in its execution. Less successful was the Gelee de langoustines aux poireaux et
coriander which contained sweet, rare crustaceans with a cold gelatinous poaching liquor
– the latter being too excessive - spiked with leek and coriander strands. Next came the
Risotto Carnarolli. This proved a taste sensation, generously flavoured as the dish was
with summer truffles and parmesan. Delicately poached, well flavoured sea bass came
with a quenelle of fennel puree and black sesame seeds, both providing a contrast in
taste and texture. Seared duck foie gras with white olives and basil, jus d’arachide was
meltingly indulgent. Roast pigeon a la berce was cooked to a beautifully tender medium
rare, with baby turnips, radishes and black cherries. The cheeses were impressive in
their variety and condition, whilst the desserts were imaginative and inventive, including
sautéed strawberries with pepper and olive oil. Incidentals such as bread, amuses-
bouches and petits fours were all top-notch reflecting meticulous preparation and
attention to detail.
Dishes were fully described without being patronising to foreigners. Overall, this was a
restaurant of a high order: the freshness and quality of the ingredients; the creativity
of the menu; the well balanced wine list and the efficiency and professionalism of the
service all contributed to Le Jardin’s success. Given 17/20 in Gault Millault for 2004, it can
justifiably look forward to its second Michelin star next year.
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What is more, Beaune can now boast an
attraction to foodies with a Michelin starred
restaurant whose chef, Roland Chanliaud, is
one of the rising stars amongst young
European chefs. Set in a 1930s mansion
close to the city ramparts after which the
restaurant takes its name, Le Jardin, has the
benefit of a delightfully shaded garden, a
popular place to eat in the summer. Inside,
the pastel shades and well spaced tables
also offer a pleasant background to the
serious experience of eating.
attraction to foodies with a Michelin starred
restaurant whose chef, Roland Chanliaud, is
one of the rising stars amongst young
European chefs. Set in a 1930s mansion
close to the city ramparts after which the
restaurant takes its name, Le Jardin, has the
benefit of a delightfully shaded garden, a
popular place to eat in the summer. Inside,
the pastel shades and well spaced tables
also offer a pleasant background to the
serious experience of eating.
| For those who wished to eat less, three course set menu and the carte were also available. The wine list was exceptional in its range and, although there were expensive vintages on offer, there was also great value for money. For instance, half bottles of Chablis and Cote de Beaune, both premier cru, to accompany the above dishes came to only to 50E. |
