La Villa des Lys - Cannes
by John Freeman. July 2004
La Villa des Lys is attached to the Hotel Majestic Barrière, one of the four palace hotels in Cannes on the Cote d’
Azur.  Just along the road, tourists gather patiently to have their picture taken standing on the red carpet of the
film festival. Whilst this restaurant may not garner the same excitement to tourists, it nonetheless provides
travelling foodies with a sense of anticipation.  Oh yes, it's how the other half live - "come on darling, let's park
the £1m yacht and pop into La Villa des Lys or La Palme D'Or."  The restaurant is found in a light airy veranda at
the front of the hotel and in common with many high quality food establishments appears unpretentious and
nondescript; you would hardly notice it was there from the outside.
Once inside we found the meet and greet
warm and friendly; the service for the
evening was to prove professional and
impeccable without being intimidating.  
The dining room was sumptuous, the
uniquely oval tables were spacious and
the seating extremely comfortable;  an
ideal atmosphere in which to feel
completely relaxed in this beautiful setting.
Bruno Oger has been head chef at the Villa des Lys Barrière since 1995 during which time he has been
awarded French Chef of The Year by
Gault Millau (2000) and been rated as high as 18/20 by that guide.  A
MIchelin Star has also followed.  Bruno started in the kitchens of  Michel Gaudin, and then as a section head at
Georges Blanc's
Michelin Three Star restaurant near Lyon.  Bruno has also travelled Asia, including Bangkok,
where he developed his palate for a variety of spice and exotic combinations.  The theme of Villa de Lys
embraces the local culture as well as hints of his time well spent around the culinary world, culminating in
delivering a unique eating and dining experience.
We both chose the Degustation menu,
which proved good value at 95 Euro,
offering as it did generous portions as
well as the obligatory Amuse Bouches
and pre-puddings. The sequence of
delights started with sauteed king
prawns which without being too rich,
was lifted perfectly by a coriander broth.
The second course proved a special treat for offal fans and more rich altogether - a sweet and unctuous oxtail
ravioli complete with marrow bone and a vegetable and celery nage.  The sommelier had previously provided
invaluable assistance in choosing a village Puligny Montrachet at 95 Euro, which complemented the fish courses
perfectly, and while we looked longingly at the various red Grands Crus from Domaine de La Romanée Conti,
decided to let our wallets live to spend another day.  The third course was a fillet of Turbot enhanced with
anchovies, cooked in a cocotte dish, and served with an onion tart.  Both visually impressive and a taste and texture
sensation, I sensed an homage to the local culture.  Pudding was a perfect blend of sweet and sharp with
seasonal fruits marinated in maple syrup with a blackcurrent sorbet.

Lional Lavernhe, the restaurant manager, oversaw a front of house that resembled a well oiled machine and all in
all would add this to my recommended list of gastronomic restaurants.
Copyright fine-dining-guide.com  2004-2005. All Rights Reserved.