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Michelin Guide Rouge - A Guide for the 21st Century?
August '05
In the early 1900s, when there were but 3500 cars in all of
France, Andre and Edouard Michelin were the visionaries
that understood that the success of the invention would
require the journeys to be as risk free as possible.
This was quite a feat as roads at that time were not tarmac,
nor were they marked and the vehicles in question
frequently broke down. It fell upon the 'hired help' - as
anyone wealthy enough to own a car, also employed a
chauffeur - to navigate the safest route that would include
accommodation, fuelling, servicing and tyre changing
outlets.
And so the birth of the Michelin Guide.
By the mid 1920s there were over half a million cars in
France, a growth which prompted Michelin to charge for the
Guide for the very first time. This era also ushered the first
Michelin Red Guide that we know and understand today -
maps, recommended hotels, restaurant ranking with stars
and so on. Nonetheless, Michelin remained parochially
French for a further half a century before rapidly expanding
around Europe.
The anonymous inspection system and closely guarded -
some would say shrouded - secrecy of the ranking criteria
remained. For whatever reason the star awards from the
Michelin Guide became the key benchmark of success for
chefs across France and Europe as well as a cultural
phenomenon in France.
The Guide had moved unnoticed from a manual for the
privileged motorist to a bible for the industry and tourist in
equal measure. However, there has been no room for
complacency, even the most conservative and established
institutions must adapt to the times to survive and flourish.
The dawning of the 21st century has been a case in point
and a turbulent ride for Michelin, with both internal and
external challenges.
Internally, a former inspector, Pascal Remy, resigned and
wrote a potentially explosive book called 'An Inspector at the
Table.' Monsieur Remy alleged an array of less than noble
practices, for example, that certain three star awards were
retained by undeserving restaurants for mutual marketing
purposes; that in one particular year there were only a
handful of inspectors for the whole of France and most of
them were occupied with filtering old data.
The response from Michelin was swift and strong with full
page newspaper ads in France underlining their principals
and practices. An exercise somewhat undermined by the
gaffe of awarding stars to the Ostend Queen in a Benelux
Guide prior to the opening of the restaurant.
External pressures have also come;noticeably from within
the industry, with several prominent chefs speaking out at
the cost, stress and unrelenting pressure of seeking and
retaining the stars. A matter of particular prominence in the
last ten years with chefs "giving up" their stars in protest.
August '05
In the early 1900s, when there were but 3500 cars in all of
France, Andre and Edouard Michelin were the visionaries
that understood that the success of the invention would
require the journeys to be as risk free as possible.
This was quite a feat as roads at that time were not tarmac,
nor were they marked and the vehicles in question
frequently broke down. It fell upon the 'hired help' - as
anyone wealthy enough to own a car, also employed a
chauffeur - to navigate the safest route that would include
accommodation, fuelling, servicing and tyre changing
outlets.
And so the birth of the Michelin Guide.
By the mid 1920s there were over half a million cars in
France, a growth which prompted Michelin to charge for the
Guide for the very first time. This era also ushered the first
Michelin Red Guide that we know and understand today -
maps, recommended hotels, restaurant ranking with stars
and so on. Nonetheless, Michelin remained parochially
French for a further half a century before rapidly expanding
around Europe.
The anonymous inspection system and closely guarded -
some would say shrouded - secrecy of the ranking criteria
remained. For whatever reason the star awards from the
Michelin Guide became the key benchmark of success for
chefs across France and Europe as well as a cultural
phenomenon in France.
The Guide had moved unnoticed from a manual for the
privileged motorist to a bible for the industry and tourist in
equal measure. However, there has been no room for
complacency, even the most conservative and established
institutions must adapt to the times to survive and flourish.
The dawning of the 21st century has been a case in point
and a turbulent ride for Michelin, with both internal and
external challenges.
Internally, a former inspector, Pascal Remy, resigned and
wrote a potentially explosive book called 'An Inspector at the
Table.' Monsieur Remy alleged an array of less than noble
practices, for example, that certain three star awards were
retained by undeserving restaurants for mutual marketing
purposes; that in one particular year there were only a
handful of inspectors for the whole of France and most of
them were occupied with filtering old data.
The response from Michelin was swift and strong with full
page newspaper ads in France underlining their principals
and practices. An exercise somewhat undermined by the
gaffe of awarding stars to the Ostend Queen in a Benelux
Guide prior to the opening of the restaurant.
External pressures have also come;noticeably from within
the industry, with several prominent chefs speaking out at
the cost, stress and unrelenting pressure of seeking and
retaining the stars. A matter of particular prominence in the
last ten years with chefs "giving up" their stars in protest.
Perhaps all of these happenings are more a reflection of
the downside of success than an indicator of difficult
times? It might appear that the guides have developed
so much power they may set the trends rather than
measure them; they may self serve rather than reader
inform; they may pressurise rather than encourage.
Michelin consistently spell out that they are not
consultants to the industry but designed to provide
information to their readers. That said, there are no end
of chefs seeking out the Holy Grail of the Michelin formula
or prescription for recognition. This recognition extends
far beyond the ego; the stars make money pure and
simple.
However, the power of Michelin can only be maintained
should they sustain the faith of the reader and while this
may have been shaken by Remy and Industry events, the
greater threat lies with technology. The reader today is
faced with the near boundless opportunities provided by
the internet. This can be a double edged sword for
businesses - adapt and find a wider audience or die.
A little dramatic perhaps, but millions of restaurant
visitors from around Europe and the World are writing
their views and reviews online; a paperback guide is
relevant as a benchmark at a point in time once a year,
new internet reviews are available daily. Shouldn't this
change make guides such as Michelin obsolete? At the
very least provide a stern test of the strength of the brand?
Michelin have been quick to go some way to embrace
this potential threat as an opportunity with the
development of the online www.viamichelin.com; a free
to access version of all the European Guides. Over the
last 18 months, the website has significantly improved its
value and ease of use to the 'surfer' and must generate
significant revenue for Michelin in its own right - a
potential opportunity perhaps to invest in more frequent
assessments and updates to the readers.
They have also demonstrated a proactive move to
broaden the brand; the introduction of the first US edition
(New York), scheduled for September 2005; the Guide to
Pubs in Britain to reflect the rise of Gastro Pubs; the
introduction of an in-car satellite navigation system
guide; a new six tier rating system <<les espoirs>> in
France.
Fashions in the industry will continue to come and go -
today it is molecular gastronomy and less salubrious
surroundings; Michelin reflect that change. As with their
marking system everything is well considered and
reflects a confidence and stamp of quality in decision
making for their readers.
Add to this the dramatically improved transparency in
measurement, management and practices (as
demonstrated by the 2005 press pack and their first ever
internet interview ) you find a Michelin Guide moving
forward at pace, evolving as ever in the innovative spirit of
Andre and Edouard Michelin: A Guide which no doubt is
in safe hands for the 21st century, both as a leader to
readers and industry members alike, in whatever guise
or whichever market segment the reader dictates.
the downside of success than an indicator of difficult
times? It might appear that the guides have developed
so much power they may set the trends rather than
measure them; they may self serve rather than reader
inform; they may pressurise rather than encourage.
Michelin consistently spell out that they are not
consultants to the industry but designed to provide
information to their readers. That said, there are no end
of chefs seeking out the Holy Grail of the Michelin formula
or prescription for recognition. This recognition extends
far beyond the ego; the stars make money pure and
simple.
However, the power of Michelin can only be maintained
should they sustain the faith of the reader and while this
may have been shaken by Remy and Industry events, the
greater threat lies with technology. The reader today is
faced with the near boundless opportunities provided by
the internet. This can be a double edged sword for
businesses - adapt and find a wider audience or die.
A little dramatic perhaps, but millions of restaurant
visitors from around Europe and the World are writing
their views and reviews online; a paperback guide is
relevant as a benchmark at a point in time once a year,
new internet reviews are available daily. Shouldn't this
change make guides such as Michelin obsolete? At the
very least provide a stern test of the strength of the brand?
Michelin have been quick to go some way to embrace
this potential threat as an opportunity with the
development of the online www.viamichelin.com; a free
to access version of all the European Guides. Over the
last 18 months, the website has significantly improved its
value and ease of use to the 'surfer' and must generate
significant revenue for Michelin in its own right - a
potential opportunity perhaps to invest in more frequent
assessments and updates to the readers.
They have also demonstrated a proactive move to
broaden the brand; the introduction of the first US edition
(New York), scheduled for September 2005; the Guide to
Pubs in Britain to reflect the rise of Gastro Pubs; the
introduction of an in-car satellite navigation system
guide; a new six tier rating system <<les espoirs>> in
France.
Fashions in the industry will continue to come and go -
today it is molecular gastronomy and less salubrious
surroundings; Michelin reflect that change. As with their
marking system everything is well considered and
reflects a confidence and stamp of quality in decision
making for their readers.
Add to this the dramatically improved transparency in
measurement, management and practices (as
demonstrated by the 2005 press pack and their first ever
internet interview ) you find a Michelin Guide moving
forward at pace, evolving as ever in the innovative spirit of
Andre and Edouard Michelin: A Guide which no doubt is
in safe hands for the 21st century, both as a leader to
readers and industry members alike, in whatever guise
or whichever market segment the reader dictates.
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